Talmine to Stromness

We set ourselves up for a long day with the hearty breakfast, cooked on the mooring. We set off in a slight mist, which after a few miles turned into light rain. We did have a bit of a useful breeze and for a couple of hours did turn off the engine. 

We headed across to The Old Man of Hoy, which is an impressive rock stack near the entrance into Scapa Flow. 

By five o'clock we were moored in the marina, and shortly after we set off to find dinner and a drink. 

This is the most northerly point on my trip, from now on it will be downhill all the way back home. 

'When I rounded Cape Wrath'

I had been concerned about rounding Cape Wrath from the time I conceived the idea of sailing round The British Isles. It has a fearsome reputation and even the name is enough to put you off. As it turned out we rounded the cape in near perfect conditions. We left Kinlochbervie in very light NW winds and slight seas, with full main plus the genoa, with the engine on to keep our speed up. Before we reached Cape Wrath the winds dropped to zero, and the sea became gentle ripples. We were still doing a steady 6 - 7 knots, over the ground due to the tide. Lots of blues sky and sunshine. 

It didn't last. We were picked up by the fierce tides and whisked along at nearly ten knots (SOG). The seas built becoming rough and confused making it difficult to tell where

the next wave was coming from. Once round the cape, away from the rip tides things did settle down, however a sea mist rolled in reducing the visibility to under a mile. 

David, the harbour master at Kinlochbervie, had recommended that we make for the bay at Talmine, after rounding the cape, rather than my planned stop at Loch Eriboll. This turned out to be sound advice as the provided mooring buoys are very secure. The entrance through the Kyle of Tongue was worrying, as great chunks of very solid rocks were revealed out of the mist. 

But from now on I will become the yacht club Cape Wrath bore. Whenever someone else remarks that such-un-such was a bit choppy, I will endeavour, at ever opportunity, to slip into the conversation, 'When I rounded Cape Wrath'.

Stornoway to Kinlochbervie

John and I left Stornoway early, passing the Marco Polo cruise ship coming in before six o'clock in bright sunshine. The days this far north do seem to be longer than down south and we are approaching the longest day. 

There was a bit of a swell, and the light wind was on the nose. After a few hours it did build a bit and swung round to the north, we motored on with a reefed main sail. 

A group of about 15 dolphins did join us on the trip for approximately 10 minutes, diving in and out of our bow wave. They also seemed pleased that the weather had warmed up. 

Once we were closer to Kinlochbervie, we were on a broad reach and able to turn off the engine for the last hour. 

The harbour master was on the pontoon to greet us and helped with our mooring lines. He was also able to advice us on were to moor tomorrow after we have rounded Cape Wrath. 

We refilled the fuel tanks, having used 15 litres on the crossing from Stornoway.

We bought an ice cream and a postcard, which I wrote whilst sitting on a picnic bench overlooking the loch. 

Forecast - Very Rough becoming Rough

We had made the decision to stay in Stornoway fairly early on Monday, having seen the forecasts on the tele in the airports at Gatwick and Inverness. 

So we had a lie in, waking up to bright sunshine. It was hard to believe the forecasts, but the bad weather forecasts persisted through out the day. It should be better tomorrow, so we have made plans to leave first thing in the morning.  

We did have a wander around the town, during which I bought a new inverter to replace the one that started smoking this morning. 

John did buy two haggis & chips for lunch, which were a bit of a struggle to manage. I felt bloated for the rest of the afternoon.

 

Back to Calviere II in Stornoway

I had done some ringing round and John Elliott very kindly agreed to clear his busy schedule and join me for the next leg. I have never sailed with John before, only against him in the Swale Regatta. He, in Inachus, always beats me, but he is in the faster class. He is on the handicap committee, so I suspect he has it sorted. 

He arrived this morning at 06:30, along with mum & dad to take us to Gatwick. 

The Wetherspoons breakfast was followed by three 'free' sample whiskies as we past the duty free area. I don't usually drink the hard stuff before lunch, but they forced us. A 15 year single malt, a very tasty Chivers Regal blended, and a Jura. I was surprised that they were giving away free whisky, first thing on a bank holiday Monday, but I didn't complain, even though they didn't give us a full measure. 

The wait between flights at Inverness was much greater than the flight times combined. 

 Calviere II was just as I had left her, just warmer and dryer. 

After restocking the larder, we went up to the Thai restaurant that I'd been with David. 

At home

I can recommend the Swallow Hotel at Carlisle. Nice comfortable bed, hearty breakfast, good location etc, and the price  was very reasons able. The only criticism was that the decor was a bit tired and dated. 

We continued to share the driving, down the A1 & M11, arriving home to Chrissy at about three thirty. 

A fairly uneventful end to this leg of the adventure.

Many thanks to David for sharing the adventure with me. Despite the weather, we had an exciting time. We had enjoyed some good sailing, in stunning scenery.  A good number of excellent meals in spectacular surroundings. Many good single malt scotches, only one was suspect, but then again, it wasn't so bad that we needed to take it back. 

I'll restart the blog on Bank Holiday Monday, when I'm due to fly north, back to Calviere II. 

 

Homeward bound - by car

Having disembarked from the ferry at Oban, we caught the bus to the caravan park where David had left his car. David did make a slight diversion in Oban to purchase a highly rated single malt.  

Sharing the driving, although as David's car is left hand drive, manual gearbox and me with my dodgy ankle, David did most of it. It is also four wheel drive, fitted with snow tyres. The weather forecast suggests they may be useful. 

We have stopped for the night in Carlisle and went into town for a Pizza for dinner. 

David & Peter's Single Malt Rating Table

Oban - 6
Tobermory 10yr - 7
Macallan 10yr - 8
Talisker 10yr - 6
Laphroaig (Islay) 10yr - 9
Glenfiddick - 8
Balvenie Signature 12yr - 6
Jura 10yr - 7
Glenlivet 12yr - 8
The ten laddie Bruichladdich - 6
Highland Park Orkney 12yr - 7
Glenmorangie 10yr - 7
Abhainn Dearg (Outer Hebridies) 4yr - 5
Caol Ila (Islay) 12yr - 6
Bowmore (Islay) 12yr - 7

This would suggest that the Laphroaig came out top. This particular scotch has a highly individual peaty, smoky taste. I would probably buy the Macallan, or the Glenlivet, depending on the price!

That was a hearty Scottish breakfast!

Having spent the night in a real bed, with sheets, which didn't rock to and fro, didn't have the occasional drip of condensation, was warm and I didn't need to wear a hat, didn't have the noise of wind whistling through the rigging; I didn't sleep that well! 

But The Lichboisdale Hotel did supply a really good Scottish Breakfast, a nice runny egg, thick cut local bacon, a good meaty sausage and Stornoway Black Pudding. The Stornoway Black pudding has only recently, 8th May, been given regional protected status. ie only Black Pudding produced in the parish of Stornoway can be called 'Stornoway Black Pudding', the champagne of black puddings. As David is bit of a sausage fundamentalist, he was well satisfied with the breakfast. 

I write this blog about two hours into a five hour voyage on the Caledonian MacBrayne MV Lord of the Isles, just passing the island of Rum. The sun is shining, a slight sea with a stiff cold breeze out on deck. 

South, but not in Calviere II

David and I spent the morning tidying up Calviere II, also doubling the mooring lines, just in case the wind should get up whilst she is unattended.

Yvonne phoned to say she had fallen off her bicycle and done some damage to her hand. Her doctor has advised her not to sail with me on the next leg from Stornoway to the Orkneys and on to Wick. I'm hopeful of finding another crew member for the leg starting after the May spring bank holiday, but if any of my blog followers is up for trip, please do get in touch ASAP. Hopefully, Yvonne's hand will heal soon and she may be able to join Calviere II later in the adventure. 

David & I caught the 12:35 bus out of Stornoway to Leverburgh, changing buses, but not the driver at Tarbert. Once at Leverburgh, we went straight onto the ferry to North Usit. The ferry route weaves in and out of the rocks between the buoys in the narrow channel, crossing the strait between the islands where the current can reach five knots at spring tides. We ate our packed lunch onboard and were the only foot passengers.  

When we disembarked, we were the only people waiting for the bus. It was a bit uncomfortable watching everyone else, including the ferry, disappear leaving us on our own in the small waiting area, but five minutes later the bus to Lochmaddy turned up. 

We had an hour between buses in Lochmaddy, which was spent sheltering from the rain in the local hotel. Two small buses took us to Lochboisdale, the final bus must have the best route in the world, taking us from North Usit, over the island of Benbecula and down the length of South Uist. Passed miles of golden sandy beaches, over narrow causeways, over rugged mountains and headlands. The driver took us direct to the door of the Lochboisdale hotel where we are to spend the night. 

We dined in the hotel conservatory, overlooking the harbour. I enjoyed my bacon wrapped scallops.  

Stornoway wash day - Guest Blog

This has been my last full day aboard as the adventure is coming to an end for me. So what past, well a huge amount of wind and lots and lots of rain.

Best part of the morning was spent trying to subjugate the launderette. We did however get talking to some very interesting people, as you do. The young lady Chartered Surveyor was in the middle of a career change to itinerant yacht skipper/crew. Last year she had sailed round Britain starting from Dartmouth in April. The not so young lady was from Bara who was in Stornoway looking to buy a house. Another interesting person. 

The next challenge is our Island hopping trip back to Oban. We have a hotel booked in Lochboisdale and today we bought the ferry tickets. All we need now are the bus tickets which we get on board tomorrow. 

I've had a great time again this year and wish Peter and all who join him, good winds and lots of sunshine for the rest of the trip. 

A cold, wet, windy day in Stornoway

The weather forecast again was dire, which is really why we had made our passage direct to Stornoway, not stopping at the other minor anchorages on route. And the forecast has turned out to be spot on correct. 

So we will be leaving the boat on Tuesday, travelling down to Loch Boisdale by bus, and then catch the Wednesday morning ferry to Oban. A little adventure involving buses & ferries.  Once in Oban, we will collect David's car and head for Kent, stopping overnight, probably in Carlisle. 

A really good Sunday lunch in the Royal Hotel, sitting at a window table where I can see Calviere II mast rocking in the stiff breeze. We both had the slow roasted pork belly which turned out to be a good choice. 

Once again I have received criticism that my blog is too food centric. And again, on a day like today, I make no apologises. Outside - cold and wet. Inside - warm and content. Two malts also help to increase the internal glow. This Sunday lunch is probably the only thing we will do today, and we intend to do it well. 

Bus journey on the Isle of Lewis

During our trip north from Oban we had mentioned a number of times that we were heading for Stornoway. 'You don't want to go there' was a very universal response. One of the guys in the pub was very vocal, even comparing Stornoway to Sheerness, where he had worked some years ago. As we were sitting in possibly the most beautiful pub, in the most wonderful location and loch, I suppose his point of reference is suspect. 

The Isle of Lewis is different to the other isles we have visited, less rugged and more population, but still very beautiful in it's own way. 

We took the 12:45 bus out of Stornoway to visit The Stones of Calanais, which is a 5000 year old northern Stonehenge. You do wonder why they built it, and why choose this wild & remote location. The views from the stones is considerable better than Salisbury Plain. 

We continued on the bus, on the circular route which included along the Western shore, taking in many small hamlets and villages in the bright afternoon sunshine. 

We have received  a number of emails & facebook messages whilst underway, sharing news and wishing us a good journey. Bob & Pat, Peter H, Julian, Dorril, Melody, and Heather S-W. 

The intension is to eat fish n chips onboard tonight. Across the water, in the castle grounds, a marquee has been erected and a number of local bands will be performing. We have a grandstand view, although we will only see their backs. 

Gairloch to Stornoway

The weather forecast for later / next week wasn't looking very favourable for the long 35 mile crossing to the Isle of Lewis, but today's forecast was unbeatable. Light SW winds, and small waves of less than a metre. Later the waves are due to build to over two metres. 

As it was dead calm, we had breakfast underway, David producing copious amounts of porridge from the galley. 

We set the autohelm and unfurled the genoa, but the engine purring down below did most of the work. 

Seven hours later, we kept clear of the Isle of Lewis ferry as she departed and made our way up to the marina. 

Having moored up, we refuelled and paid our dues. The light rain started to fall.

The Thai meal in Stornoway was excellent. 

Across the loch to Gairloch

We decided not to do too much today! After a light banana based breakfast we crossed the loch. Very little wind, bright sunshine; tee shirt weather. 

We moored alongside the pontoon, and sought out the harbour master for fuel. He apparently had done a runner taking the computers with him. The retired harbour master sorted us out, but we had to become a fishing boat as he couldn't print out the tax form for yachts. I didn't tell him my fishing rod was handed over to Matthew in Plymouth.

Gairloch is only a few miles south of Loch Ewe which is where the war time convoys to Russia gathered before heading off towards Norway's North Cape. Today the veterans of the convoys were honoured with a medal, presented on the bank of Loch Ewe. The veterans are staying in the Gairloch hotel and about 45 had made it here. 

We walked into the main village and stopped for lunch in a shoreside pub, with palm trees. We then walked back along the golden sand beach to the pier and returned to Badachro. 

We enjoyed the wood pigeon with Black pudding starter followed by Scottish lamb Shank in the Badachro Inn. 

Heaven

We lightly fried Bill's venison sausages and then cooked them in the oven, just as Bill had recommended. Eaten with baked beans for breakfast was perhaps an indulgence, but there are only three meals in a day! We saved some for later. 

We wriggled our way out of the tiny loch, following our inboard track and dodging the basking seals. The entrance hadn't got wider overnight and even knowing it was there hadn't made it easier to spot. 

We hoisted the sails in hazy sunshine and headed for Gairloch, back in the mainland. At times the wind built up, and other times it dropped a little. We did need one tack to bring us to the entrance of Gairloch. 

We motored into the loch, and then took a small loch to the south to the small village of Badachro. Again no phone signal.

After finishing Bill's Venison sausages we blew up the inflatable dinghy and went ashore. 

The Badachro Inn has magnificent showers, good beer, fifty whisky's, an exciting local food menu, an open fire and Wi-Fi. We may need to say here for a while. 

Which will we finish first, the menu or the whisky's?

At home, Chrissy's kippers from Mallaig arrived this morning. 

Pictures of trip from Kyleakin to Rona

The reason for being here

Today, we had sunshine! We had a useful breeze when we passed under The Skye Bridge. Once we passed through The Narrows of Raasay, the wind settled a little stronger and we switched off the motor.
We had been heading for Portree, but we had seen the town and harbour yesterday with Ewen. This sailing weather was too good to be missed. We changed course and headed for Rona.
The harbour was very difficult to see, the entrance being a gap in the rocks about six boat lengths wide. Also when three boat lengths off, we were in over 100m of water.
We passed through the narrow double dog leg and picked up the visitors mooring.
After a snooze, we blew up the inflatable dinghy and went ashore.
Bill, the island warden came down to meet us. We asked about some venison sausages, so we walked back to Rona Lodge. David & Bill talked sausage, I paid for our goods and the mooring. I then asked about the phone signal.
Bill said there a reasonable signal at the top ridge of the island, and seeing my walking stick, he ran me up there on his quad bike.
David followed on foot, using the walking stick.
Rona is a quiet, peaceful island, warm and sunny, with stunning views back to Skye and across to the mainland.
So all in all, a fantastic day.

Guest Blogger tour of the Island

We awoke to another cool wet windy day but were uplifted by a good hot shower round at Saucy Mary's. This was followed by a mellow coffee, we set up for our whistle stop tour of Skye. We were picked up by Ewen (thats what happens when you hang around street corners) and driven across the Skye bridge to Kyle of Lochalsh on the mainland! The train from Inverness arrives here and we had come to collect any last minute punters but there were none. Peter took the opportunity to buy himself a walking stick. We three set off in our personal 14 seater minibus and recrossed the Skye bridge accompanied by the Skye Boat Song.

What followed was a graphic history of Scotland from 1600 whilst peering through the mist at what we understand would have been stunning scenery had the rain stopped and the mist lifted. All in all it was a great day out as the alternative would have been to shiver on board the boat. We returned safely returned about 17.00hrs with just enough time for a snooze before the Archers.

As the rain had at last eased off we ventured the mile or so up the road to a well recommended Indian restaurant for another delicious meal. On our way home we stopped off at Saucy Mary's for a quick drambuie which we had earlier learned was originally produced on Skye, Peter was not impressed so it will be back to the single malts next time.

Pictures from our coach tour of Skye

Gale warning - Hebrides

We put off making any decision on leaving Kyleakin until we had a weather forecast. It wasn't good. We could possibly have headed for Portree, but once there, we would be on a mooring buoy. We did consider going, and staying in B&B, but in the end we stayed put on the pontoon in Kyleakin.
The wind whistled over the top of us.
We went into Harry's cafe at the top of the pontoon ramp. He cooked a really substantial breakfast with all the trimmings. Whilst in the cafe we booked a tour of the island by coach for tomorrow.
We did a full circuit of Kyleakin, in sunshine, bought a Sunday paper and settled back onboard.
We did sort out the genoa, where it had came unwrapped from the drum on the trip up from Mallaig. We also managed to correct the wind direction instrument. This was followed by a cheese & oat cake lunch, read of the paper and an afternoon nap.
After the Archers, we walked up the road in the rain to Saucy Mary's where we both had the Seafood Chowder, seated next to the fire. I followed my chowder with steamed Isle of Skye langoustines and David had the haggis. This was followed by the single malts, David had the Glenfiddich and I had the Laphroaig, from The Isle of Islay, which was smokey and peaty.

Cracking Sail

I write this blog from my bunk, inside two sleeping bags, wearing socks & hat as well as the normal warm PJ's . It is cold in't north.
But what a cracking sail. We left Mallaig under a reefed main, and fairly quickly put the second reef in. We should never have tried using the genoa, or rather we should have only used the reefed genoa. As it was the wind whipped all the genoa out
and we got in a bit of a mess trying to put it away. David did well turning the reefing drum on the foredeck whilst we were romping away. We did suffer a couple of unexpected broaches and gybed, but we coped. Calviere II was hacking along. In the narrow straits between the Isle of Skye and the mainland we were touching ten knots, which is twice Calviere II's normal cruising speed.
We arrived early afternoon in Kyleakin, which fortunately is well sheltered from the SW winds. Unfortunately it isn't a nice comfortable marina with showers, laundry and electric. Calviere II doesn't have any form of heating other than a fan heater, which is why I have a hat on in bed.
We moored alongside another yacht on the pontoon and asked a local boat owner, Alan, about the available facilities and local hostelries, saying we were in desperate need of a launderette. He said the nearest launderette was eight miles away and he offered to take us there.
Not only that, after we had finished our washing, we phoned Alan and he came back up and collected us. What a wonderful fellow. David and I did wonder how one can start to repay such generosity and kindness. What would warm a Scottish yachtsman? We guessed at half a bottle of scotch. It would work for me and I'm not Scottish.
I had a nice email from Peter H, asking if we were enjoying our adventures in't north. I think the answer is yes, but it could be warmer.
In the evening we strolled slowly to the local hotel any enjoyed scotch broth followed by game pie & venison stew.

Music where ever we go

In the evening, after David had cooked an excellent mince in pasta sauce, I limped slowly to the nearest bar.
It did look a bit of a dive and having quite quickly finished our pint of Belhaven pain killer, we were ready to leave, when two lads entered the bar. One carried a Banjo case and the other had a fiddle case. This might be interesting, so we ordered another half. They were very good, playing some foot tapping music. I'm glad we stayed.

Mallaig - Guest Blogger

Guest Blogger David

Kippers for Lunch

The end of week one for me is fast approaching and what has occurred. Well we have managed two good voyages and in the long term scheme of things we have made good progress. It was a delight to return to Oban for the second time in 40 years, oddly enough it has hardly changed. Following the specification we did some really good eating and not a bad bit of drinking.

The motor sail up to Tobermory in only light passing showers was a good start and what a venue Tobermory turned out to be, all colourful little houses, pubs and restaurants. The harbour facilities were excellent as well, even if the loos did close from 21.00 to 07.00!

On Thursday we let Tobermory all clad up in water proofs and duvets and set sail for Arisaig. Just to be perverse the sun shone all day long and we had the most spectacular sail up to Mallaig although it never got what you might describe as warm. Mallaig came well recommended by the guide but failed to live up to its promises. Toilet block, well you could use the facilities in the Fishermen's Mission but unfortunately it closed last year, a new facility will be build adjacent the marina one day. Cloths washing, well that was at the mission too. Diesel yes that's ok, as long as you want to buy it in bulk and no 30 litres doesn't count. And to top it all Peter twists his ankle! In fairness to Mallaig it does have electric hook ups which have made the last two  night extremely comfortable and the kipper was superb.

We did have an interesting day out in Fort William which by contrast to Oban has changed quite a bit in the last 40 years. The Train journey was particularly memorable and it may be worth returning to do it again on a sunny day.

Today Peter has been recovering and planning our route for the next couple weeks. If all goes well we will be hopping around the islands and enjoying some good sails, the scenery here is just stunning. There is very little electric out there though so lets hope the temperature rises a little, 10 degrees would be good.

A day out.

The railway journey between Mallaig and Fort William is regularly voted as one of the best journeys in the world. The forecast was for rain all day so we caught the 10:10 to Fort William.
We past through Arisaig Station, Britain's most westerly station and also the setting for the film 'Local Hero'
As we crossed the Glenfinnan Viaduct, I sent a picture to John D, just so he knew what he was missing. He responded, by sending a photo of his summerhouse footings.
We wandered around Fort William, having a fishy lunch in a waterside restaurant overlooking the loch. If it wasn't for the rain we would have had a stunning view of Ben Nevis, which we occasionally glimpsed.
We went into the local museum, mainly to shelter from the persistent light rain. We were rewarded with some diverse collections of artifacts relating to the Commandos, the Jacobean uprising, the wildlife, including a magnificent stuffed Golden Eagle.
The 16:19 sped us back to Mallaig.
Unfortunately, on walking back to the boat, I slipped on the wet aluminium joining the pontoons and went down rather heavily, twisting my ankle painfully.
I write this blog with a packet of frozen peas balanced on my swollen ankle.

Most Westerly Point, so far

We set off from Tobermory, heading for Arisaig. We motored out and round the Point of Ardnamurchan which is the most westerly point on mainland Britain. More west than Lands End. It is even further west than Dublin, and is the furthest west I have been on this trip, so far. We will be going further west, out to Stornoway but that will be in a couple of weeks time.
Once round the point, we were on a broad reach in a NW F4, sailing really well. A single dolphin was spotted, but he took no interest in us.
After a couple of hours and still 5 miles from Arisaig, the wind suddenly dropped to nothing. We motored on. After a short while the breeze returned , but from the north and considerably cooler. As we were going to be on a mooring buoy we diverted to Mallaig where there is a marina, with electric for the fan heater.
We may be soft southerners but we are making good progress.